Heritage Foodways as Matrix for Cultural Resurgence: Evidence from Rural Peru (Russian Translation)
pdf (Русский)


Food Heritage
Indigenous Foodways
Cultural Resurgence
Biocultural Heritage
Rural Peru

How to Cite

Matta, R. (2022). Heritage Foodways as Matrix for Cultural Resurgence: Evidence from Rural Peru (Russian Translation). Studia Alimentaria, 1(1), 36–66. https://doi.org/10.46539/saj.v1i1.3


This article explores critical directions in the study of cultural heritage and, in particular, food heritage research. Its goal is to deliver insight into local perspectives produced outside mainstream heritage organizations. Strategies implemented jointly by peasant farmers of rural Peru and non-governmental organizations committed to promoting cultural resurgence show how food discloses the symbiotic relation between nature and culture in these indigenous worlds, and allows for claims grounded in social, political, and economic imaginaries. The initiatives described in this article develop within transnational networks of partners and interlocutors but outside of universalist pretensions. They constitute food heritage that differs from that of global cultural actors such as the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization and the United Nations by addressing only the needs of local communities and not complying with mechanisms that bring prestige and revenues to states and powerful cultural entrepreneurs. Globally nurtured, but locally implemented, these locally based initiatives seek out and take advantage of opportunities in strategic, proactive fashions.

pdf (Русский)


Adell, N., Bendix, R., Bortolotto, Ch., & Tauschek, M. (2015). Between Imagined Communities of Practice Participation, Territory and the Making of Heritage. Göttingen University Press.

Agrawal, A. (2002). Indigenous knowledge and the politics of classification. International Social Science Journal, 54(173), 287–297. https://doi.org/10.1111/1468-2451.00382

Altieri, M., & Toledo, V. M. (2011). The agroecological revolution in Latin America: Rescuing nature, ensuring food sovereignty and empowering peasants. Journal of Peasant Studies, 38(3), 587–612. https://doi.org/10.1080/03066150.2011.582947

Angé, O. (2016). Barter Fairs, Ethnic Configuration and National Multiculturalism in the Argentinean Andes. Ethnos, 81(4), 648–666. https://doi.org/10.1080/00141844.2014.989873

Apffel-Marglin, F. (1995). Development or decolonization in the andes? Futures, 27(8), 869–882. https://doi.org/10.1016/0016-3287(95)00050-7

Apffel-Marglin, F. (2002). From Fieldwork to Mutual Learning: Working with PRATEC. Environmental Values, 11(3), 345–367. https://doi.org/10.3197/096327102129341127

Apgar, J. M., Argumedo, A., & Allen, W. (2009). Building Transdisciplinarity for Managing Complexity: Lessons from Indigenous Practice. International Journal of Interdisciplinary Social Sciences, 4(5), 255–270.

Appadurai, A. (2010). Modernity at large: Cultural dimensions of globalization. University of Minnesota Press.

Argumedo, A. (2008). The Potato Park, Peru: Conserving Agrobiodiversity in an Andean Indigenous Biocultural Heritage Area. In T. Amend, J. Brown, A. Kothari, A. Phillips, & S. Stolton (Eds.), Protected Landscapes and Agrobiodiversity Values (pp. 45–58). German Technical Cooperation and International Union for the Conservation of Nature.

Argumedo, A. (2013). Collective Trademarks and Biocultural Heritage: Towards New Indications of Distinction for Indigenous Peoples in the Potato Park, Peru. IIED.

Argumedo, A., & Pimbert, M. (2006). Protecting indigenous knowledge against biopiracy in the Andes. IIED.

Asensio, R., & Cavero, M. (2013). El Parque de la Papa de Cusco, Documento de trabajo 183. Instituto de Estudios Peruanos (IEP).

Ashley, S., & Frank, S. (2016). Introduction: Heritage-Outside-In. International Journal of Heritage Studies, 22(7), 501–503. https://doi.org/10.1080/13527258.2016.1184704

Barthel, S., Crumley, C., & Svedin, U. (2013). Bio-cultural refugia—Safeguarding diversity of practices for food security and biodiversity. Global Environmental Change, 23(5), 1142–1152. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.gloenvcha.2013.05.001

Bellier, I. (2013). ‘We Indigenous Peoples…’: Global Activism and the Emergence of a New Collective Subject at the United Nations. In B. Müller (Ed.), The Gloss of Harmony: The Politics of Policy-Making in Multilateral Organisations (pp. 177–201). Pluto Press.

Bellier, I., & Préaud, M. (2012). Emerging issues in indigenous rights: Transformative effects of the recognition of indigenous peoples. The International Journal of Human Rights, 16(3), 474–488. https://doi.org/10.1080/13642987.2011.574616

Bhabha, H. (1994). The location of culture. Routledge.

Bigenho, M., & Stobart, H. (2016). The Devil in Nationalism: Indigenous Heritage and the Challenges of Decolonization. International Journal of Cultural Property, 23(2), 141–166. https://doi.org/10.1017/S0940739116000114

Brannstrom, C. (2009). South America’s Neoliberal Agricultural Frontiers: Places of Environmental Sacrifice or Conservation Opportunity? Ambio, 38(3), 141–149.

Buergin, R. (2015). Contested Rights of Local Communities and Indigenous Peoples in Conflicts over Biocultural Diversity: The case of Karen communities in Thung Yai, a World Heritage Site in Thailand. Modern Asian Studies, 49(6), 2022–2062. https://doi.org/10.1017/S0026749X14000390

Cabieses, H. (2010). The “Miracle of San Martín” and Symptoms of “Alternative Development” in Peru, Drug Policy Briefing 34. Amsterdam: Transnational Institute.

Coombe, R. (2016). The knowledge economy and its cultures: Neoliberal technologies and Latin American reterritorializations. HAU: Journal of Ethnographic Theory, 6(3), 247–275. https://doi.org/10.14318/hau6.3.018

Coombe, R., & Turcott, J. (2012). Indigenous Cultural Heritage in Development and Trade: Perspectives from the Dynamics of Cultural Heritage Law and Policy. In C. Graber, K. Kuprecht, & J. Lai (Eds.), International Trade in Indigenous Cultural Heritage: Legal and Policy Issues (pp. 272–305). Edward Elgar.

Corr, R. (2016). “We make them give more”: Women’s roles in the exchange and redistribution of food across ethnic boundaries. Food and Foodways, 24(3–4), 173–193. https://doi.org/10.1080/07409710.2016.1210897

Csergo, J. (2016). La gastronomie est-elle une marchandise culturelle comme une autre?: La gastronomie française à l’Unesco: Histoire et enjeux [Is gastronomy a cultural commodity like any other: French gastronomy at UNESCO: History and stakes.]. Menu Fretin. (In French).

Cueto, S., & Chinen, M. (2008). Educational impact of a school breakfast programme in rural Peru. International Journal of Educational Development, 28(2), 132–148. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijedudev.2007.02.007

Delgado, F., & Escobar, E. (2006). Dialogo intercultural e intercientífico para el fortalecimiento de las ciencias de los pueblos indígenas originarios [Intercultural and inter-scientific dialogue for the strengthening of the sciences of native indigenous peoples]. Agruco-Compas, Plural Editores. (In Spanish).

Desmarais, A. A. (2007). Globalization and the Power of Peasants: La Via Campesina. Fernwood Publishing.

Faiffer, G., & Belaunde, L. E. (2016). Mujer, biodiversidad y seguridad alimentaria en las comunidades kechua-lamas [Women, biodiversity and food security in Kechua-Lama communities]. Waman Wasi and PRATEC. (In Spanish).

Forsyth, M. (2015). Cultural Economics and Intellectual Property: Tensions and Challenges for the Region: Cultural Economics and Intellectual Property. Asia & the Pacific Policy Studies, 2(2), 356–369. https://doi.org/10.1002/app5.77

Frank, L.-E. (2011). The Discourse and Practice of Native American Cuisine: Native American Chefs and Native American Cooks in Contemporary Southwest Kitchens (PhD dissertation). University of New Mexico.

García, M. E. (2005). Making Indigenous Citizens: Identity, Development and Multicultural Activism in Peru. Stanford University Press.

García, M. E. (2013). The Taste of Conquest: Colonialism, Cosmopolitics, and the Dark Side of Peru’s Gastronomic Boom: The Taste of Conquest. The Journal of Latin American and Caribbean Anthropology, 18(3), 505–524. https://doi.org/10.1111/jlca.12044

Gasché, J. (2010). De hablar de educación intercultural a hacerla [From talking about intercultural education to doing it]. Mundo Amazónico, 1, 111–134. https://doi.org/10.5113/ma.1.9414 (In Spanish).

Geismar, H. (2013). Treasured Possessions. Duke University Press.

Giguère, H. (2007). Vues anthropologiques sur le patrimoine culturel immatériel: Un ancrage en basse Andalousie [Anthropological views on intangible cultural heritage: An anchorage in lower Andalusia]. Anthropologie et Sociétés, 30(2), 107–127. https://doi.org/10.7202/014116ar (In French).

Gonzales, T. (2015). An Indigenous Autonomous Community-Based Model for Knowledge Production in the Peruvian Andes. Latin American and Caribbean Ethnic Studies, 10(1), 107–133. https://doi.org/10.1080/17442222.2015.1034433

Graddy, T. G. (2014). Situating In Situ: A Critical Geography of Agricultural Biodiversity Conservation in the Peruvian Andes and Beyond: Situating In Situ. Antipode, 46(2), 426–454. https://doi.org/10.1111/anti.12045

Greaves, T., Bolton, R., & Zapata, F. (Eds.). (2010). Vicos and Beyond. Altamira Press.

Grey, G. (2011). Decolonization as Relocalization: Conceptual and Strategic Frameworks of the Parque de la Papa, Qosq (MA thesis). University of Victoria.

Hauser-Schäublin, B. (Ed.). (2011). World Heritage Angkor and Beyond. Universitätsverlag Göttingen.

Holmberg, A. (1959). Land Tenure and Planned Social Change: A Case from Vicos, Peru. Human Organization, 18(1), 7–10. https://doi.org/10.17730/humo.18.1.562p272226168r20

IIED. (2013). Biocultural Heritage: Promoting Resilient Farming Systems and Local Economies. IIED.

Instituto Nacional de Estadística e Informática [National Institute of Statistics and Informatics] (INEI). (2010). Perú: Análisis etnosociodemográfico de las comunidades nativas de la Amazonía, 1993 y 2007 [Peru: Ethno-sociodemographic analysis of Amazonian native communities, 1993 and 2007]. INEI. (In Spanish).

Ishizawa, J. (2009). Affirmation of Cultural Diversity: Learning with the Communities in the Central Andes. Development Dialogue: What Next, 2, 106–139.

Isnart, C. (2015). Self Heritage-Making and Religious Minority in Greece: An Ethnography of Heritage Activities outside of the Cultural Institutions. In N. Adell, R. F. Bendix, Ch. Bortolotto, & M. Tauschek (Eds.), Between Imagined Communities and Communities of Practice (pp. 171–183). Göttingen University Press.

Leonard, W., & Thomas, B. (1988). Changing Dietary Patterns in the Peruvian Andes. Ecology of Food and Nutrition, 21(4), 245–263.

Llorca, I. (2014). La cocina en la Comunidad Campesina de Vicos de los Andes peruanos [Cooking in the Vicos Campesino Community of the Peruvian Andes] (MA thesis). Université Laval. (In Spanish).

Macas, L. (2010). Sumak Kawsay. Yachaykuna, 13, 13–39.

Matta, R. (2016). Food incursions into global heritage: Peruvian cuisine’s slippery road to UNESCO: Food incursions into global heritage. Social Anthropology, 24(3), 338–352. https://doi.org/10.1111/1469-8676.12300

Motta, R. (2016). Social Mobilization, Global Capitalism and Struggles over Food: A Comparative Study of Social Movements. Routledge.

Nazarea, V., Rhodes, R., & Andrews-Swan, J. (2013). Seeds of Resistance, Seeds of Hope. University of Arizona Press.

Parasecoli, F. (2017). Knowing where it comes from: Labeling traditional foods to compete in a global market. University of Iowa Press.

Pelletier, B. (2012). Repas gastronomique français à l’UNESCO (1): Déclassement en vue ? [French gastronomic meal at UNESCO (1): Downgrading in sight?] Retrieved August 2, 2021, from Gestion des Risques Interculturels website: https://gestion-des-risques-interculturels.com/pays/europe/france/repas-gastronomique-francais-a-lunesco-1-declassement-en-vue/ (In French).

Pimbert, M. (2009). Towards Food Sovereignty: Reclaiming Autonomous Food Systems. Centre for Agroecology and Food Security (CAFS), IIED and Rachel Carson Center (RCC).

Ponce Romero, T. (n.d.). Los reyes de la papa: Economic, racial, and social transformations in the Peruvian Central Highlands (PhD dissertation). Harvard University.

Rengifo, G. (2008). Nuevos retos para la juventud Quechua-Lamas. Notas a propósito de una visita al Centro ‘Waman Wasi.’ [New challenges for Quechua-Lamas youth. Notes on a visit to the 'Waman Wasi' Center]. In G. Rengifo, L. Tapullima, & S. Alarcón (Eds.), Sembrar para comer [Sowing to eat] (pp. 27–32). Bellido Ediciones EIRL. (In Spain).

Robertson, I. J. M. (Ed.). (2012). Heritage from Below. Ashgate.

Rojas, B. (1999). Así converso con mis semillas [This is how I converse with my seeds]. Urpichallay. (In Spanish).

Salazar, N. B. (2010). The Glocalisation of Heritage through Tourism: Balancing Standardisation and Differentiation. In S. Labadi & C. Long (Eds.), Heritage and Globalisation (pp. 130–147). Routledge.

Sammells, C. (2014). Haute Traditional Cuisines: How UNESCO’s List of Intangible Heritage Links the Cosmopolitan to the Local. In R. Brulotte & M. Di Giovine (Eds.), Edible Identities: Food as Cultural Heritage (pp. 141–158). Ashgate.

Samuel, H. (2008, July). French Cuisine ‘Not a World Treasure’, Says UN. The Telegraph. Retrieved November 13, 2014 from www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/europe/france/2257965/French-cuisine-not-a-world-treasure-says-UN.html

Siniscalchi, V. (2019). Slow Food: The Economy and Politics of a Global Movement. Bloomsbury.

Smith, L. (2012). Editorial. International Journal of Heritage Studies, 18(6), 533–540. https://doi.org/10.1080/13527258.2012.720794

Stein, W. (2000). Vicisitudes del discurso del desarrollo en el Perú: Una etnografía sobre la modernidad del Proyecto Vicos [Vicissitudes of development discourse in Peru: An ethnography of modernity in the Vicos Project.]. Casa de Estudio del Socialismo (SUR). (In Spain).

Swiderska, K. (2006). Protecting Community Rights over Traditional Knowledge: Implications of Customary Laws and Practices, project folder. IIED.

Throsby, D., & Petetskaya, E. (2016). Sustainability Concepts in Indigenous and Non-Indigenous Cultures. International Journal of Cultural Property, 23(2), 119–140. https://doi.org/10.1017/S0940739116000084

Turner, K., Davidson-Hunt, I., Desmarais, A., & Hudson, I. (2016). Creole Hens and Ranga-Ranga: Campesino Foodways and Biocultural Resource-Based Development in the Central Valley of Tarija, Bolivia. Agriculture, 6(3), 41. https://doi.org/10.3390/agriculture6030041

Valdiviezo, L. A. (2010). Indigenous worldviews in intercultural education: Teachers’ construction of interculturalism in a bilingual Quechua–Spanish program. Intercultural Education, 21(1), 27–39. https://doi.org/10.1080/14675980903491866

Van Kessel, J., & Larraín, H. (Eds.). (2010). Manos sabias para criar la vida [Wise hands to nurture life]. Abya-Yala. (In Spain).

Walsh, C. (2008). Interculturalidad, plurinacionalidad y decolonialidad: Las insurgencias político-epistémicas de refundar el Estado. Tabula Rasa, (9), 131–152.

Zhang, J. (2015). The Food of the Worlds: Mapping and Comparing Contemporary Gastrodiplomacy Campaigns. International Journal of Communication, 9, 24.

Creative Commons License

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.

Copyright (c) 2022 Raúl Matta